Two bargains from Southern France

My stash of Rhone wines seems to be growing quite large lately as the 2007 vintage begins to make its way onto the local shelves. These are still mainly the everyday wines, not for the cellar, though I am finding a lot of them need a little time still. My latest selection was the 2007 Domaine de la Janasse Cotes du Rhone. It was just recently that I had a bottle of the 2006, which still seemed a little young. The 2007 actually wasn't much different upon initial tasting. It also had a bit of heat, but was actually better than a couple of other 07s I've had recently. On the second night, the wine really seemed to be coming together with the fruit coming forward more and the wine more in balance. Overall, it's still a little simple and has some room for growth, but I think it will be pretty good in another few months.

The next wine I had was actually not a 2007, nor was it from the Rhone, but actually a Vin de Pays. However, it was made by one of the stars of the southern Rhone, Laurence Feraud of Pegau. The 2006 Pegovino is a Syrah/Grenache blend, and it will stand up to most any Cotes du Rhone. The wine was nicely balanced, with plenty of fruit. It's also quite a bargain (I think about $11), and may be easily overlooked by people that don't recognize it. I advise anyone who likes a good southern Rhone to be on the lookout for this wine, as it is quite good, especially for the price.

2007 Bodegas Atteca Calatayud

I've found myself somewhat in a France/Italy rut lately, but finally broke that momentarily for a new Spanish wine. The 2007 Bodegas Atteca Calatayud is an old vine Garnacha, and had received a pretty good review in the Wine Advocate. I was not disappointed either, as there was plenty of spice and cherry fruit on this, similar to a good southern Rhone wine.

On the second night, the wine had actually improved - it had mellowed just a bit so it wasn't in your face but instead had a bit more length. I ended up tasting this wine again a couple of nights later when in Pensacola as it was part of a tasting lineup of Spanish wines from importer Jorge Ordonez at the local wine shop (Aloha Wines on Bayou Blvd). As I said, this was a new winery for me from the ever-increasing selection of value-priced Spanish wines, and one I certainly intend to drink again. It's definitely a great wine for the price (around $15).

The Italy trip meals - the last dinner

Out final night in Verona, we went to Corsini, a wine bar/shop/restaurant. One of the great features there is that you can choose any wine off the shelf and have it with your dinner for just 5 euros extra. We were sitting outside, and Dad let me go in to look around and see what I could find. Not surprisingly, my choice was influenced by something we had tried during the day at Vinitaly.

Argiano's Solengo is a well-known Supertuscan, but I had never tasked it before trying it that day at Argiano's booth. I also did not know that the blend included not only Sangiovese, Cab, and Merlot, but also Syrah. When looking on the shelves at Corsini, I found a bottle of the 1999 Solengo, a very good but underrated vintage, and though that would be a fine choice.

It turns out that this was a great choice. We both ended up getting Osso Buco as out main course, and by that time the wine was really firing on all cylinders. The Syrah adds a dimension that you don't find in many Supertuscans, and as I am a huge fan of Syrah it really takes this wine to another level in my opinion. It was also great to have yet another wine with a few years of age on it - this wine still took some time to open up fully, but it was much more well-rounded that a newer vintage would have been. I'd definitely like to add some Solengo to my cellar now, but it's doubtful I'll be able to find a bottle of any recent vintage here for close to the price we paid at Corsini.

Two more Italians at home

Time to interrupt the trip posts with another post about what I've been drinking here at home. Not surprisingly, I've been in the mood for plenty of Italian wine since returning, and this pair did not disappoint. First up was the 2007 Conterno-Fantino Barbera d'Alba Vignota. This wine was yet another top-notch QPR wine from Piemonte, right up with the Dolcettos from Sandrone. It is fresh and fruity but with just enough structure to take it up a level. It is really a great wine with food, as it won't overpower but will complement so many different things. This wine got 90 points from the Wine Advocate, and that is well-deserved.

Up next was the 2005 Fattoria Le Pupille Morellino di Scansano. We tasted the wines of Le Pupille at Vinitaly, and I happened to have already bought this bottle before the trip so it was in stock after I returned. 2005 was a pretty good but overlooked vintage sandwiched between two exceptional vintages in Tuscany, but this wine showed that it was no slouch. The wine has nice fruit, with a hint of spice that may be provided by the bit of Alicante added to the blend (similar to their top wine Saffredi). As with their full lineup tasted at Vinitaly, I was quite impressed with this wine, and will certainly search out more from this estate.

The Italy trip meals, episode 7

Friday night, and we were still going strong. Dad was finally ready to try out someplace else in Verona and remembered a place he had been before - sort of. He knew the general area, and that it had the word "Stella" in the name. After 20 minutes or so of wandering, we finally came upon Via Stella, and just down the block was La Taverna di Via Stella. Of course, this place wasn't much less crowded than the Bottega, but once again we were told a table might come available with a wait. One glass of wine at the small bar area later, and we were seated, again after 10:00.

While the wine list wasn't quite as lengthy as that of the Bottega it was still pretty nice (and well-priced). Eventually I suggested the 2001 Brig'aldara Amarone, but we were told they may be out. The waitress returned with 2 bottles - the 1997 (regular) and the 2003 Case Vecie. We went for the 1997, one of the great vintages of Amarone, and were not disappointed. While we drank many Amarones on the trip, the 1997 Brig'aldara Amarone was a treat because it was well-aged and really into a peak drinking window. It was elegant, but at the same time still full of life, and really a treat.

The meal was quite nice as well - to start we got the risotto with vegetables that was the nightly special, and both chose the rabbit braised in mushroom sauce as our second course. The wine was a great match with the rabbit, and made this yet another memorable meal for the trip.

The Italy trip meals part 6

Thursday night, we managed to end up at the Bottega yet again. I thought it wasn't such a good idea, but for some reason Dad decided to try our luck again (and I was already a bit weary after a long wait for a taxi leaving Vinitaly). Well, after waiting a couple of hours, we finally got seated a little after 10 pm in a back room. Little did we know that we wouldn't be close to the last people seated - when we left around 12:30, there will still people coming in and sitting down.

We had already drunk plenty of wine on the day, but of course we needed a bottle with dinner. This time, we went for the 2000 Quintarelli Valpolicella - a chance to compare it with the 1999 we had the first night.

This wine was also quite good, though not quite at the level of the 1999. It still went well with the meal, which was quite a feast (being that late I was starving). The first course was bigoli (a thick pasta) with duck, which was outstanding and really a great match for the wine. For the second course, I had a veal chop that came covered in a cheese sauce - it may not be all that healthy, but it was oh so good at that point. Once again, a great evening at the Bottega, and we can thank all the great folks there for accommodating us.

I look forward to someday going back to Verona when Vinitaly is not taking place, so that I can visit the Bottega at a less hectic time. It is really a wonderful place, and a spot any serious wine lover should visit (the wine list is like a huge book, even bigger than the one at Cul de Sac in Rome that was previously the biggest one I had seen). And like any great place, the people there can make all the difference, and it is obvious that they care a great deal about their customers. The next two nights we would finally move along to other destinations for dinner, but still stop by for a quick drink and to say hello.

The Italy trip meals, #5

On Wednesday we finally headed for Verona in advance of the start of Vinitaly Thursday. Dad of course figured that the Bottega del Vino should be a stop that evening, even though we knew it would likely be crowded. There were no tables to be had, but once again the good folks there were able to accommodate us, as long as we could promise to be done by 9 pm. As it was only 7, we figured a 2 hour dinner would be within our range.

We had already been drinking wine by the glass at the bar before being seated, with the Caterina Zardini Valpolicella from Giuseppe Campagnola being our choice. Soon after being seated we noticed the reservation card at the table next to us was for "Campagnola x 2" and we both assumed it must be Giuseppe himself coming in later. Taking it as a sign, we ordered the 2004 Campagnola Amarone Caterina Zardini to have with dinner.

Sure enough, soon after our neighbors arrived and they quickly noticed the bottle on our table. It turned out to be Giuseppe Campagnola and his American importer Aldo, and we of course struck up a conversation. Both Aldo and Giuseppe were quite friendly and we ended up having a great time talking with them while dining.

The meal was great as well, as I started with the Risotto all'Amarone and followed with an herb-crusted venison loin. A great meal, and a great start to the Vinitaly experience. Since we needed to vacate the table, we ended up back at the bar in front where we ordered Campagnola's Fortificato, a dessert wine made with a hint of brandy. We weren't familiar with it, but of course Giuseppe had recommended it to us. Not surprisingly it was quite a treat and the perfect cap to our first night in Verona.

We would see Giuseppe again at the show, and get to spend more time with him - like so may others we have met over the past couple of years, he is a modest and friendly winemaker who is very appreciative of people like us that appreciate his work. I actually still have a bottle of the 1998 Caterina Zardini Amarone in my cellar, and to get to meet the people who make these wines is always a thrill, especially when they are so nice. While we definitely enjoyed these wines before, now having made that personal connection will make every bottle of Campagnola wine a special occasion as we toast our new friend Giuseppe. I think we both definitely look forward to visiting Campagnola again, maybe not just at Vinitaly but at the winery as well.

A pair of 2004 Zinfandels

Breaking from Italy quickly, I want to cover two Zinfandels I've had recently, one right before the trip, one right after. A few days before departing I decided to have something I wouldn't get on the trip, so I barbecued some pork chops and popped open a 2004 Turley Ueberroth Zinfandel. This was my first taste of a Uebberoth and at least for this vintage I would put it in the category of more refined, less overpowering Turleys. Not to say I did not like it - the wine was quite enjoyable, just not quite the full-throttle experience many of their wines deliver.

A few days after getting back I ended up having barbecued chicken (partly because I forgot the grocery store would be closed on Easter Sunday and I didn't have anything else on hand at home). Instead of another Turley, I opted for the 2004 Ridge Caboose Zinfandel. This was one of the wines we got while on the Ridge mailing list, and all I can say is "Wow!" What struck me about this wine is that when I closed my eyes and tasted this, I thought I was back in the Veneto drinking an Amarone. This wine had the raisiny characteristics, the dark cherry flavors, and just a hint of the sweetness that reminded me of the bigger Amarones we had (I'd compare it most to those from Tommaso Bussola). The wine was actually even better on the second night - where the first night it was certainly showing off a bit, on the second night this wine was deep and full-bodied. I loved it, and really wish I had more. What a great wine from Ridge.

Meals from the Italy trip #4

On our third day in Venice, Dad and I had a bit of a marathon session. It was the sort of vacation day that you look back on and say "Man, that was great." We didn't plan on a lot of things, it just sort of flowed and we went with it (and kudos to Dad for it - first time I've ever seen him not have a full meal at lunch and just go with the flow instead).

I don't want to make this a super-long post, so the summary is this - "lunch" was a variety of snacks (meatballs, pancetta, bread) and a couple of glasses of wine at our friend Massi's restaurant on Giudecca, then more wine at the wine bar (bacaro) Cantinone in Dorsoduro. After an afternoon of culture and shopping, we returned to Cantinone for more wine and some ciccheti. Following that, a quick stop at Harry's Bar for Negroni's and we finally arrived for dinner at all'Acuigheta a little before 10 pm having had a lot to drink on the day.

Once again, Dad was willing to let me look at the wine list, and this time I went for another "different" choice - we've been hearing about this newer producer in the Veneto called Zyme. It turns out that among their wines they make an IGT that is 100% Osoleta (a somewhat forgotten grape that several in Valpolicella are now rediscovering and putting in their blends). The 2001 Zyme Oz was quite a treat. The Orsoleta offers a great body and unique profile, but was well-balanced and had plenty of flavor to offer.

Whagt to have with such a wine? Well, to start with I had to have the mussels in red sauce, like what we had at Da Romano the day before. Here it was just mussels (no clams) and the sauce was a little thinner, but it was still incredibly tasty, and the mussels were huge. For the second course I again chose a bigger meat dish to match with the wine, this time the grilled lamb chops. They were cooked perfectly, and were a great match with the wine. Yet another great meal at the Acuigheta.

As for the wine, it was definitely a treat, and something I doubt I will be able to find easily here. It also definitely shows what Zyme is capable of - don't know how easy it will be to find any of their wines in the US, but I'll definitely keep an eye out.

Meals from the Italy trip, part 3

On our second night in Venice, we headed for one of the top restaurants in the city, Al Covo. It turns out that the owner Cesare has an American wife Diane, and she is good friends with my friend Megan (who is the US Consul in Venice), so with Megan joining us we were definitely in for a great night. Dad gave me a chance to look over the wine list, and I was quick to make a decision - the 2004 Giuseppe Rinaldi Cannubi San Lorenzo-Ravera Barolo.

I've heard so many good things about Rinaldi, but never tried any of his wines, so I was eager to get this chance. And since we were having Barolo, I felt just having seafood wouldn't be allowing the wine to show its full potential. Thankfully Cesare had some great options for us among the specials for the night. I still began with a local dish, a pasta served on cuttlefish ragu. I can't remember what the pasta was called - it's a tubular pasta, but cut and not stuffed. It was different, but went wonderfully with the cuttlefish ragu. The wine also actually worked well here, as it was quite an elegant Barolo, and not as tannic as I worried it may be for being so young.

The wine really caught on with the second course though - braised beef cheeks with a chickpea puree. What an amazing dish and a perfect complement to the wine. Like I said, this wasn't an over the top brawny Barolo, but an elegant wine that offered nice earthy flavors and a very long finish.

This was a meal and experience to treasure. Cesare and Diane were wonderful hosts too, happy to talk with us about their restaurant, and what they are doing there. This was another spot that Anthony Bourdain had visited, and I felt like we got a special experience too, really hearing the pride that they take in preparing the best local ingredients and showing them off. For anyone that goes to Venice and wants a truly special meal, I can't recommend Al Covo enough. But regardless of where you are, I'd also recommend the Rinaldi Barolo too.

Meals from the Italy trip #2

On our second day in Venice, we ventured to the outer island of Burano for what would be quite a memorable meal. We had seen the Restaurant Da Romano featured on No Reservations with Anthony Bourdain, and decided to seek it out. The trip was well worth it, even if I was unable to convince Dad that we needed to get their famous fish risotto. Instead, he opted for the 4-course menu, and I just for the simple spaghetti al fruitti di mare (which would also be among Dad's 4 courses). To start with, we ordered the 2006 Maculan Brentino, a blend of Cab and Merlot from a top Veneto producer. They only had it available in 375 ml bottles, so we got one and decided that meant another choice would follow. I wasn't wowed by the Maculan, as Cab-Merlot blends aren't necessarily my favorites, but the wine was ok.

After sharing Dad's course of steamed mussels and clams in a light red sauce, it was time to go for something else and this time I had one spotted on the list - the 2003 Il Poggione Brunello (again in a 375). This may have been a 2003, but it was really wonderful. The 2003 Brunellos are really getting overlooked by people, but I think they are actually a better choice for near-term drinking. This wine didn't show the effects of the hot weather from the vintage, but was still fresh and vibrant with cherry and other fruit. I doubt the 2003s will age as long as top vintages, but they are a great choice for drinking in the near-term. Il Poggione is of course a great producer, which doesn't hurt. Anyway, this wine actually did ok with my meal, and Dad continued through it with his plate of fried seafood and vegetables before we finished it off with a selection of cookies. All in all, quite a good meal (and to think it was only lunch, and dinner might have actually topped it).

The 2009 Italy trip meals, part 1

My posts about the trip to Vinitaly will include two separate series - one about the show itself, and another about all of the wines we drank at our meals. This is the first post on the latter subject.

Our first night in Venice we went to our local favorite, all'Acuigheta, which is just across from our hotel. The restaurant has an incredible selection of wines at great prices and it's always nice to see our friends there. On this night, we arrived early taking shelter from the rain so there was one bottle of wine while we snacked on ciccheti (traditional Venetian appetizers). Our first bottle was the 1999 Quintarelli Valpolicella. The old master of the region, Quintarelli's Valpolicellas are quite an experience. They aren't as massive as those from dal Forno, but instead offer up an elegance that is quite remarkable. The 1999 is really incredible, with so much fruit, but such a harmonious, balanced profile. I am glad to say I was able to purchase a bottle and bring it home with me as well.

Next up that night with dinner (Taglioni neri with calamari for me) we stepped up to an Amarone. The 2004 Brig'aldara Amarone was a wonderful wine from one of our favorite producers. It is still young, but showing plenty of the telltale cherry and raisiny fruit of Amarone. It was a great cap to our first day in Venice, and just a hint of the great wines still to come.

A trio of Rhones

The blog was on a break while I went to Italy again, but I'm back and have plenty to catch up on with reports from the trip. First though, a few wines from before/after. First up was a selection from the cellar, the 2001 Eric et Joel Durand St. Joseph. St. Joseph is an appelation in the northern Rhone that sometimes gets a poor reputation because it is quite large and not all of the area is great terroir. It also means some of the wines age well, others not so much. This wine seemed to have done well though, and had mellowed but aged nicely, becoming a nice easy-drinking Syrah.

Next was another taste of a wine from the 2007 vintage, the Domaine de la Soleiade Vacqueyras from Vignerons de Caractere. This wasn't as rustic as many wines from this appelation, but instead a little more refined. Still, it offered a good amount of fruit and terroir and was quite enjoyable, especially for the price of about $17.

Finally, I tried the 2006 Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Les Meysonniers. Like St Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage can be a hit-or-miss appelation, but Chapoutier is of course a great producer. This wine is their lower-end label from Crozes-Hermitage, but is still pretty good. However, the wine is still young and didn't show much until the second night. Even then, I sensed there is more to come from the wine. It's not overly tannic, so it probably won't have a long life span, but I think a year or so will allow the fruit to really step forward.