Friday, May 30, 2008
2004 Bodegas Dos Victorias Elias Mora Toro
More illness kept the wine bottles corked at home until the middle of this week. When I finally was able to open something again, the choice was the 2004 Elias Mora, from the Spanish region of Toro. The wines of Toro are made from a Tempranillo clone, and usually are quite robust. This wine was no exception, though it didn't quite pack the fullness and fruit I've had from a couple of other Toros. Nonetheless, it did present a good amount of dark fruit with a little more elegance than others I've had. The wine costs about $22, so it's not cheap compared to some other Spanish wines, though it is a pretty good price for Toro. While I'm not running out to buy more, it's a producer I'd be willing to try out again.
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
More from Vinitaly - Veneto
A rather nasty cold has curtailed my wine intake over the past week, so I'll use this time to try to catch up with more notes from Vinitaly. Today I'll tackle the Veneto. Rather than one massive day of tasting from the home region of Vinitaly, we spread these out over the full 5 days. Unfortunately, my Thursday notes were a bit incomplete, so I've not got much other than the producers for the first few.
Our initial tasting at Vinitaly was with the wines of Brig'aldara. From my recollection, we tasted their Valpolicella, Ripasso, and Amarone. All were solid if not spectacular, though I must also note here that we drank the Valpolicella with lunch one day on the trip (by the glass), and also the 2003 Amarone at dinner one night in Venice. The 03 Amarone especially was quite good.
Up next at Vinitaly was Speri. Here, we were lucky enough to have one of the members of the Speri family (son Luca) guide our tasting of the La Roverina Valpolicella, the Sant'Urbano Valpolicella, the Ripasso, and the Amarone. Luca was really great at giving us lots of info on the wines as well as the Speri philosophy - they are focused on a very traditional style, producing more elegant wines that will typically require some age. I have to admit that I was not high on Speri before this, but the tasting really opened my eyes, and I look forward to drinking more of their wines. In fact, we did actually drink a bottle of their Amarone Friday night at dinner. We had plenty of choices too, as that dinner was at the Bottega del Vino in Verona, one of the great restaurants for wine you will ever come across.
Our last producer on Day 1 was Giuseppe Campagnola. There we tasted a Valpolicella, followed by two Amarones, the Amarone Classico as well as the Amarone Caterina Zardini.
Saturday, we got another treat when we went to the booth of Tommaso Bussola. After some initial difficulty, we were seated and hosted by a woman who we would discover to be Daniella Bussola, wife of Tommaso. She proceeded to guide us through an extended tasting of several wines and vintages, beginning with the 2003 and 2004 L'Errante. This wine is an IGT made with a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc varietals, and is quite good, though atypical for a Veronese wine.
We followed that with all three of Bussola's 2004 Amarones, the Amarone Classico, the Amarone TB, and the Amarone Vigneto Alto. Each presented a different profile, with the TB probably my favorite (the Vigneto Alto came across just a little too sweet for me, almost like a Recioto).
Finally, our tasting finished with two Reciotos, the 2005 Recioto Classico and the 2003 Recioto TB. These were both amazingly good, sweet and thick, like a liquid dessert. They are special wines that anyone who wants a really great sweet wine should search out. Just a note to remember - don't try drinking any other regular wine afterward (we tried and unfortunately it ruined my taste buds for some quality stuff we had later).
Sunday, we finally made it to one of the big producers of the region with a stop at Allegrini. The tasting there started with their two basic IGT's from the 2005 vintage, Palazzo della Torre and La Grola. I have always loved the Palazzo della Torre as a favrorite regualr purchase, starting with the 1998 vintage. For 2005 through, this tasting definitely favored La Grola (perhaps it was the bit of Syrah in the blend). We then stepped up to the 2004 La Poja, another IGT blend, and finally the 2005 Amarone. Both of these were very good, though not at a higher level than many of the top Amarones we tasted.
Moving back to a smaller producer, we then tasted the wines of Stefano Accordini. Tiziano Accordini (Stefano's son) was our gracious host, and one of the friendliest people we met during the trip. We tasted the 2004 Amarone Acianatico, the 2001 Amarone Riserva (very good) and finally the 2005 Recioto. We enjoyed our visit so much that we ended up stopping in for a final taste of the Amarone on Monday before departing for Milan.
Monday, we once again went big and small. First up was Masi, probably the biggest of the Veneto producers. We started with the 2005 Ripasso Campofiorin, followed by the 2003 Serego Alighieri Valpolicella. Next up was the 2004 IGT Toar, an indigenous grape usually only blended in small quantities, which was different than most anything else tasted from the region. Finally, we had two Amarones, the 2003 Costasera Riserva and the 2001 Mazzano.
We concluded our Vinitaly extravaganza with a great tasting of the wines of Lorenzo Begali. His young son Giordano led us through this impressive lineup, beginning with their 2007 Valpolicella. Up next was the 2006 Ripasso, followed by the 2005 Tigiolo, an IGT blend. We then moved to the Amarones, with the 2004 Amarone Classico and the 2003 Amarone Monte Ca Bianca, before finishing with the 2005 Recioto. This was a great overall lineup, and a producer I definitely recommend to search out (I've seen a bit of their wine in Charlottesville, but that's it in the US).
I know there's a lot here, but it should be a pretty comprehensive listing of some of the best the Veneto has to offer (well, it excludes Dal Forno, but that visit will be in its own post sometime later). There's certainly other producers we missed, but all those visited offer a wide range of classical and modern wines from a region that many Americans may overlook, but Italians recognize as one of their real treasures.
Our initial tasting at Vinitaly was with the wines of Brig'aldara. From my recollection, we tasted their Valpolicella, Ripasso, and Amarone. All were solid if not spectacular, though I must also note here that we drank the Valpolicella with lunch one day on the trip (by the glass), and also the 2003 Amarone at dinner one night in Venice. The 03 Amarone especially was quite good.
Up next at Vinitaly was Speri. Here, we were lucky enough to have one of the members of the Speri family (son Luca) guide our tasting of the La Roverina Valpolicella, the Sant'Urbano Valpolicella, the Ripasso, and the Amarone. Luca was really great at giving us lots of info on the wines as well as the Speri philosophy - they are focused on a very traditional style, producing more elegant wines that will typically require some age. I have to admit that I was not high on Speri before this, but the tasting really opened my eyes, and I look forward to drinking more of their wines. In fact, we did actually drink a bottle of their Amarone Friday night at dinner. We had plenty of choices too, as that dinner was at the Bottega del Vino in Verona, one of the great restaurants for wine you will ever come across.
Our last producer on Day 1 was Giuseppe Campagnola. There we tasted a Valpolicella, followed by two Amarones, the Amarone Classico as well as the Amarone Caterina Zardini.
Saturday, we got another treat when we went to the booth of Tommaso Bussola. After some initial difficulty, we were seated and hosted by a woman who we would discover to be Daniella Bussola, wife of Tommaso. She proceeded to guide us through an extended tasting of several wines and vintages, beginning with the 2003 and 2004 L'Errante. This wine is an IGT made with a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc varietals, and is quite good, though atypical for a Veronese wine.
We followed that with all three of Bussola's 2004 Amarones, the Amarone Classico, the Amarone TB, and the Amarone Vigneto Alto. Each presented a different profile, with the TB probably my favorite (the Vigneto Alto came across just a little too sweet for me, almost like a Recioto).
Finally, our tasting finished with two Reciotos, the 2005 Recioto Classico and the 2003 Recioto TB. These were both amazingly good, sweet and thick, like a liquid dessert. They are special wines that anyone who wants a really great sweet wine should search out. Just a note to remember - don't try drinking any other regular wine afterward (we tried and unfortunately it ruined my taste buds for some quality stuff we had later).
Sunday, we finally made it to one of the big producers of the region with a stop at Allegrini. The tasting there started with their two basic IGT's from the 2005 vintage, Palazzo della Torre and La Grola. I have always loved the Palazzo della Torre as a favrorite regualr purchase, starting with the 1998 vintage. For 2005 through, this tasting definitely favored La Grola (perhaps it was the bit of Syrah in the blend). We then stepped up to the 2004 La Poja, another IGT blend, and finally the 2005 Amarone. Both of these were very good, though not at a higher level than many of the top Amarones we tasted.
Moving back to a smaller producer, we then tasted the wines of Stefano Accordini. Tiziano Accordini (Stefano's son) was our gracious host, and one of the friendliest people we met during the trip. We tasted the 2004 Amarone Acianatico, the 2001 Amarone Riserva (very good) and finally the 2005 Recioto. We enjoyed our visit so much that we ended up stopping in for a final taste of the Amarone on Monday before departing for Milan.
Monday, we once again went big and small. First up was Masi, probably the biggest of the Veneto producers. We started with the 2005 Ripasso Campofiorin, followed by the 2003 Serego Alighieri Valpolicella. Next up was the 2004 IGT Toar, an indigenous grape usually only blended in small quantities, which was different than most anything else tasted from the region. Finally, we had two Amarones, the 2003 Costasera Riserva and the 2001 Mazzano.
We concluded our Vinitaly extravaganza with a great tasting of the wines of Lorenzo Begali. His young son Giordano led us through this impressive lineup, beginning with their 2007 Valpolicella. Up next was the 2006 Ripasso, followed by the 2005 Tigiolo, an IGT blend. We then moved to the Amarones, with the 2004 Amarone Classico and the 2003 Amarone Monte Ca Bianca, before finishing with the 2005 Recioto. This was a great overall lineup, and a producer I definitely recommend to search out (I've seen a bit of their wine in Charlottesville, but that's it in the US).
I know there's a lot here, but it should be a pretty comprehensive listing of some of the best the Veneto has to offer (well, it excludes Dal Forno, but that visit will be in its own post sometime later). There's certainly other producers we missed, but all those visited offer a wide range of classical and modern wines from a region that many Americans may overlook, but Italians recognize as one of their real treasures.
Thursday, May 15, 2008
2004 Cesari Mara Ripasso
I've had wines from Cesari before, and while they've always made solid wines, none have ever really stood out to me as a star of the Veneto region. And at VinItaly, we never made it to their booth, or really talked about them much. This wine changed all that.
The 2004 Mara wowed me from the first sip. It was as good of a Ripasso as I've had in quite a while, full of dark fruit flavors with just a hint of sweetness. I drank this over 3 nights, and each night it was just as good, offering up an abundance of flavors and more complexity than one would expect. The last night I was even hit with a hint of chocolate.
I went back and checked to find where I got this, and how much I paid: $15. At that price, this is a wine I would highly recommend to anyone. I know I will certainly head out this weekend to buy a couple more bottles.
The 2004 Mara wowed me from the first sip. It was as good of a Ripasso as I've had in quite a while, full of dark fruit flavors with just a hint of sweetness. I drank this over 3 nights, and each night it was just as good, offering up an abundance of flavors and more complexity than one would expect. The last night I was even hit with a hint of chocolate.
I went back and checked to find where I got this, and how much I paid: $15. At that price, this is a wine I would highly recommend to anyone. I know I will certainly head out this weekend to buy a couple more bottles.
Monday, May 12, 2008
2004 Storybook Mountain Eastern Exposures Zinfandel
Last week I barbecued some chicken, and as is my custom for barbecue, a Zinfandel was chosen to accompany it. The 2004 Eastern Exposures was one of 2 bottles of Storybook I had remaining from the short time that my friend Loudoun and I were on their mailing list. While we had both experienced some uneven quality in previous bottles (we think one shipment got some heat damage), this bottle showed no such effects. From the opening, it was a full-on Zin with plenty of fruit and spice on the nose and on the palate. The finish was bit shorter than some top Turleys I've had, but still very good.
Finishing the bottle 2 nights later, nothing had really changed, and if anything the wine was even a bit smoother. I was really impressed with this bottle, and if Storybook can consistently deliver this type of quality, I wouldn't mind getting back on their list at some point. For now though, I've got plenty of Zin on hand thanks to Turley, so I'll probably hold off for now. Storybook's wines can be found in many stores though, so for anyone looking for a high-quality Zinfandel, I'd recommend them as a producer to seek out if you're willing to jump up a little in price (usually $30+).
Finishing the bottle 2 nights later, nothing had really changed, and if anything the wine was even a bit smoother. I was really impressed with this bottle, and if Storybook can consistently deliver this type of quality, I wouldn't mind getting back on their list at some point. For now though, I've got plenty of Zin on hand thanks to Turley, so I'll probably hold off for now. Storybook's wines can be found in many stores though, so for anyone looking for a high-quality Zinfandel, I'd recommend them as a producer to seek out if you're willing to jump up a little in price (usually $30+).
Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Scott Corley's Last Supper
Saturday night I attended a feast of epic proportions as we celebrated my good friend Scott's final days as a bachelor with dinner at Fogo de Chao (there were other activities too, but this was the only one that included wine). As the resident wine geek of the party, I went in search of a couple of fine bottles to accompany all of the piles of grilled meats we would be devouring. An early Saturday scouring some of my favorite area stores produced two fine choices: a 2004 Domaine Charvin Chateauneuf du Pape, and a 2005 Clos I Terrasses Laurel Priorat.
Of course, with a large party, I also ended up needing to purchase one additional bottle, so we began the night with the 2005 Antinori Peppoli Chianti Classico. Though I think 2004 is the better vintage in Tuscany, I was quite pleased at how this 2005 showed. It is a bit more modern in style than many Chiantis, apparently containing a bit of Syrah and Merlot in the final blend. To me, this gave the wine just a bit more body, which was perfect for the meal. I typically enjoy Antinori's wines, and this one is probably worth trying more of if the price is right.
Next we moved on to the big guns. First up came the 2004 Charvin, a predominately Grenache-based Chateauneuf, with bits of Syrah, Mourvedre, and Vaccarese. While the 04 didn't score quite as highly as the 05 from Parker, it was supposed to be a little more forward and accessible now. Having a bit of time to open up was certainly beneficial though, as the wine was still quite young. As it began to come around, the wine showed off a lot of the classical earthy Chateauneuf notes that I love so much. However, it was still somewhat restrained, but in a way of elegance that made this wine stand out. I quite enjoyed it, but would certainly hold off a while before drinking anymore.
Finally, we came to the 2005 Laurel, which is the second wine of Clos I Terrasses in Priorat, makers of Clos Erasmus. This was the first time I had seen the Laurel in the market, and I was quite pleased to get my hands on it, having read an outstanding review in The Wine Advocate. The Laurel didn't disappoint, coming out firing right from the start. The nose was rich, and the taste even richer, with gobs of dark fruit. The wine is a blend of 65% Garnacha and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, and is certainly what I would consider a modern or New World-styled wine. There is none of the finesse of the Charvin here, just flavors that come out punching. It was a perfect finishing wine, allowing me to have a bit with the last pieces of filet, but also to sip and enjoy as my "dessert." Overall, I thoroughly enjoyed this and may look to add a bottle to the cellar to see how it evolves. It certainly makes me wish I could afford a bottle of the Clos Erasmus as well, but as it would certainly command around $300 or more (thanks partly to a perfect score from TWA), I'll have to settle for the Laurel for now.
Overall, these three wines presented a great contrast of wines and styles that even some of the less experienced tasters noted. I was a bit surprised that one person commented that he enjoyed the Charvin more, as sometimes the more nuanced style can get lost on folks who get blown over by the full force of a wine like the Laurel. I liked both wines for what they were, and that's what makes this hobby/passion so much fun.
Of course, with a large party, I also ended up needing to purchase one additional bottle, so we began the night with the 2005 Antinori Peppoli Chianti Classico. Though I think 2004 is the better vintage in Tuscany, I was quite pleased at how this 2005 showed. It is a bit more modern in style than many Chiantis, apparently containing a bit of Syrah and Merlot in the final blend. To me, this gave the wine just a bit more body, which was perfect for the meal. I typically enjoy Antinori's wines, and this one is probably worth trying more of if the price is right.
Next we moved on to the big guns. First up came the 2004 Charvin, a predominately Grenache-based Chateauneuf, with bits of Syrah, Mourvedre, and Vaccarese. While the 04 didn't score quite as highly as the 05 from Parker, it was supposed to be a little more forward and accessible now. Having a bit of time to open up was certainly beneficial though, as the wine was still quite young. As it began to come around, the wine showed off a lot of the classical earthy Chateauneuf notes that I love so much. However, it was still somewhat restrained, but in a way of elegance that made this wine stand out. I quite enjoyed it, but would certainly hold off a while before drinking anymore.
Finally, we came to the 2005 Laurel, which is the second wine of Clos I Terrasses in Priorat, makers of Clos Erasmus. This was the first time I had seen the Laurel in the market, and I was quite pleased to get my hands on it, having read an outstanding review in The Wine Advocate. The Laurel didn't disappoint, coming out firing right from the start. The nose was rich, and the taste even richer, with gobs of dark fruit. The wine is a blend of 65% Garnacha and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, and is certainly what I would consider a modern or New World-styled wine. There is none of the finesse of the Charvin here, just flavors that come out punching. It was a perfect finishing wine, allowing me to have a bit with the last pieces of filet, but also to sip and enjoy as my "dessert." Overall, I thoroughly enjoyed this and may look to add a bottle to the cellar to see how it evolves. It certainly makes me wish I could afford a bottle of the Clos Erasmus as well, but as it would certainly command around $300 or more (thanks partly to a perfect score from TWA), I'll have to settle for the Laurel for now.
Overall, these three wines presented a great contrast of wines and styles that even some of the less experienced tasters noted. I was a bit surprised that one person commented that he enjoyed the Charvin more, as sometimes the more nuanced style can get lost on folks who get blown over by the full force of a wine like the Laurel. I liked both wines for what they were, and that's what makes this hobby/passion so much fun.
2004 Mitolo Jester Shiraz
I'm a few days late on reporting this one from late last week. Mitolo's Jester has become one of my favorite lower-priced Shiraz from Australia (and note for me lower-priced doesn't mean the $5 range of Yellow Tail's "Shiraz").
Usually coming in around $14, this wine presents you with a nice array of dark fruits without usually getting to the over-extracted cough medicine taste that has inflicted many of its peers. The first night for this particular bottle did in fact show a little bit of heat that had me wondering, but on the second night everything seemed to be in harmony, producing a nice smooth flavor that still had plenty of body to it. As I said, I've had this wine several times and it's been a pretty consistent performer.
The Wine Advocate usually rates all of Mitolo's wines very well, and I look forward to the bottle of G.A.M Shiraz that is in my cellar, waiting a few more years. Until then, more of the Jester will suffice for everyday drinking.
Usually coming in around $14, this wine presents you with a nice array of dark fruits without usually getting to the over-extracted cough medicine taste that has inflicted many of its peers. The first night for this particular bottle did in fact show a little bit of heat that had me wondering, but on the second night everything seemed to be in harmony, producing a nice smooth flavor that still had plenty of body to it. As I said, I've had this wine several times and it's been a pretty consistent performer.
The Wine Advocate usually rates all of Mitolo's wines very well, and I look forward to the bottle of G.A.M Shiraz that is in my cellar, waiting a few more years. Until then, more of the Jester will suffice for everyday drinking.
Thursday, May 1, 2008
2005 Argiolas Costera
Argiolas is a winery we definitely missed out on at Vinitaly (once, again, just not enough time). The winery is located on the island of Sardegna, not really famous for wine, but they do a really good job. I've had both of their value-priced reds, Costera and Perdera, in the past, but this was my first taste of one from the 2005 vintage.
The 2005 Costera may be the best I've tasted from Argiolas (though I've still not tasted their high-end Turriga or Korem). It really carried a lot of fruit (mainly cherry), but without being overdone. It's made from mainly the indigenous Cannonau grape, a relative of Grenache, and certainly exhibits many of the same characteristics. I'd put it up with any top Grenache-based Cotes du Rhone. For about $14, it hits a good spot price-wise as well, and based on this bottle, I'll definitely be buying more of the 2005 vintage.
The 2005 Costera may be the best I've tasted from Argiolas (though I've still not tasted their high-end Turriga or Korem). It really carried a lot of fruit (mainly cherry), but without being overdone. It's made from mainly the indigenous Cannonau grape, a relative of Grenache, and certainly exhibits many of the same characteristics. I'd put it up with any top Grenache-based Cotes du Rhone. For about $14, it hits a good spot price-wise as well, and based on this bottle, I'll definitely be buying more of the 2005 vintage.
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