Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Vinitaly 2009, part 4

It has been quite a while, but finally I am catching up with the last of the Vinitaly reports. Saturday was an amazing (and long) day, and by the end we had tasted an incredible number of wines.

The day began in the Veneto pavilions again, first at a new producer we sought out, Marion. A newer small, family-run production, Marion's wines have been getting great reviews, but are still quite unknown and difficult to find. We began with the 2007 Valpollicella Classico, and then the 2005 Valpolicella Superiore, which is dried for 40 days, and thus really a step up toward Amarone. We then moved to the 2005 Teroldego IGT and the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon IGT, which is also made with a partial drying of the grapes. The 2004 Calto, a blend of Valpolicella and Amarone, was next before finally getting to the 2004 Amarone, which was quite good. We finished with the 2002 Passito Bianco, a sweet white dessert wine that was different but quite good. Overall, this was a great tasting from an up-and-coming producer that I hope to be able to drink more of in the future.

Next we finally made our visit to our friend Tiziano Accordini of Stefano Accordini. After meeting Tiziano last year, Dad was soon contacted by his new importer and they have been able to set up tastings of his wines in Pensacola and get the wines in stock there. Since our return this year, Tiziano has made a visit to the States including a stop in Pensacola where he dined at my parents' house before hosting a tasting the following night. Tiziano has quickly become a good friend, but he also makes some fantastic wines.

We began with the 2008 Valpolicella, which is still very young, but has some potential. Next was the 2006 Ripasso, which is a definite step up. The next wine was the 2006 Passo IGT, which includes 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot in the blend. We then moved on to the Amarones, with the 2005 Amarone normale followed by an outstanding 2001 Il Fornetto Amarone. We finished with the 2005 Recioto, a great example of this type.

Our final stop of the morning was with Tommaso Bussola and his wife Daniela. We met Daniela last year, and she was again a gracious host this year, along with her husband, who is an amazingly talented winemaker. Again, we tasted through an incredibly deep lineup of wines. Up first was the 2006 Valpolicella, followed by the 2004 Valpoliicella Ca del Laito Ripasso, and the 2004 Valpolicella Superiore TB. Unfortunately, this final Valpolicella had some sort of issue, whether there were bad corks or some oxidation that occurred. The Bussolas are very disappointed and not sure what happened, but it only happened with this wine in 2004. From there we quickly rebounded with the 2004 IGT L'Errante, which is modeled on the Quintarelli Alzero (but not quite to that level yet). The Amarones were up next, beginning with the 2003 Amarone Classico. It is a good wine, but the 2004 Amarone Vigneto Alto raises things to another level, though it is a little on the sweet side. The best of the group was the 2004 Amarone Riserva TB, which is a little more balanced and a truly great Amarone. To conclude, the Bussolas had three dessert wines for us, starting with the 2006 Passito Bianco Peagna. We then has the 2006 Recioto and the 2004 Recioto TB Riserva, which is quite sweet, but really a great Recioto.

After all this, we were certainly ready for lunch. Not only were we hungry, but we also needed to refresh our palates as we began what would be an epic afternoon.

Monday, June 29, 2009

My birthday dinner - a special treat

The break in posts recently was due to my vacation, during which I celebrated my birthday. I got to spend a week visiting with many friends and capped with a weekend in Chicago. For dinner that night, six of us descended upon the Chicago Chop House for a feast.

Of course, I certainly wanted a nice wine to celebrate as well, and initially was a bit worried as I looked over the list - not that there weren't some great choices, but most of the prices were astronomical. Suddenly, I came across an amazing selection that was actually underpriced, though still quite expensive compared to what I usually spend. Regardless, I decided it was my birthday and too good an opportunity to pass up - a 1994 Giuseppe Quintarelli Alzero.



I've heard about this wine, and seen a couple of bottles for sale in Italy, where my Dad and I would kid about buying a bottle for 300+ euros. So when this bottle was listed at $250 at the Chop House, I caved. I am pleased to report it was well worth it. This was one of the most amazing wines I've ever tasted. Made of Cabernet Franc, but dried like Amarone, it is so different than anything else, and truly amazing. The fruits were bursting forth from the first sip, and continued through for a lengthy finish.

The wine was sweeter than most Amarones, but not quite at the level of a Recioto. It was also a well-aged wine, with the tannins having softened but still providing structure. I savored the wine as much as I could through dinner, a wonderful 16 oz filet. But no doubt, the wine was the star. I'd rank it right alongside the 1995 Chapoutier Le Pavillon Ermitage as the greatest wine I've ever tasted, but this time I got to drink a few glasses and enjoy it with a great meal and great friends.

This is an experience I won't ever forget and was a great way to cap a great trip. I know the price is high, and the wine is quite rare, but if anyone should ever have a chance, Quintarelli Alzero is a truly special wine that belongs in the Pantheon of world classics. It is absolutely amazing.

Sunday, June 28, 2009

My Italian wine tasting

About a month ago, I finally got around to hosting another wine tasting for my friends. I've done several of these in the past, but it had been over a year since the last one. The idea is to choose several affordable and available wines so that anyone who is a wine novice can get some great ideas of wines they might want to purchase.

For this tasting I decided to also center the theme around my trip to Vinitaly, choosing mainly wines from producers we visited on the trip (typically they were older vintages, since most of the newest wines have not yet arrived here). The tasting began with the 2005 Brancaia Tre. This blend of 80% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon has been a favorite everyday wine of mine, and the 2005 vintage is quite good, though maybe not quite as good as the 2004.

Staying in Toscana, we then had the 2006 La Mozza I Perrazzi Morrelino di Scansano. As noted before, this as an excellent value wine, though on this night I didn't think it showed as well.

Up next was the lone selection from a producer we did not visit at Vinitaly, the 2007 Luciano Sandrone Dolcetto d’Alba. Of course, I've had this wine recently, and it is a fantastic selection so I had to include it. I thought it was very good on this night as well.

Our fourth selection was the 2006 Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino. This was the most expensive selection in the lineup, but I think it was also the best. The wine was showing off a lot of cherry flavors with a longer finish than any other.

Moving south, the next selection was the 2007 Terredora Aglianico, which was as good as its previous tasting a week before. Perhaps because it came after the star of the night it was overlooked, but I still really enjoyed this wine.

The night's red wines concluded with the latest vintage of one of my favorites, the 2006 Zenato Ripassa. I had initially planned on the 2005, but came across a bottle of 2006 at the last moment so went with it. The 2006 has gotten great ratings, but in the end I think it was a little young still, and perhaps the 2005 would have been a better choice. This will still be a great wine I think, but for now it could not step up to the level that Il Poggione had on this night.

Finally, the night concluded with a bottle of 2008 Saracco Moscato. We have tasted the Moscatos from Saracco at Vinitaly each of the past two years, and it really is wonderful. There is so much fruit like apricot as well as floral notes that make this a wonderful way to end an evening.

Overall, I think the tasting offered a great look at some of the best Italy has to offer right now at a great price. I hope everyone that attended agreed and they will seek out some of these wines for themselves. For me, it was another great chance to share my passion with friends, which to me os one of the great joys of wine.

Saturday, June 27, 2009

A pair from Spain

It seems Spain has almost been a forgotten country for me lately between all of the 2007 Rhones I am sampling along with all of the Italians I continue to be trying out. However, these two wines served as a great reminder of the high quality wine being produced in Spain and available at affordable prices. First up was the 2007 Las Colinas del Ebro, a blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Garnacha from the Terra Alta region. I found this wine to be superior to several of the 2007 Cotes du Rhones I have recently sampled, more elegant and refined as opposed to the somewhat in your face style I've been experiencing from similar Rhone blends.

Up next was the 2007 Atteca Old Vines. This 100% Garnacha from Calatayud was just as good as it was when I tried it previously, if not better. Full of spice and cherry fruit, it was even better on the second night. I enjoyed this bottle so much, I immediately wanted more, but today's shopping was a disappointment, as there was none to be found. I am hopeful it is still available somewhere in Atlanta, because this is a great wine for the price and seems it should have a few years of aging potential.

Overall, these two wines were a great reminder of what Spain has on offer. There continues to be so many great values out from there, and in many different styles.

Friday, June 26, 2009

Italians from the north and south

Ok, so it's been a while since my last entry - a week of vacation and a week of heavy work and travel have really set things back. The next several days will catch up with things, and I'll start with a pair of Italians that I drank over the past few weeks.

First up is one from the north - the 2004 Matteo Corregia Roero. I wasn't at all familiar with this wine when I picked it up at a local store, but I was very impressed. This wine is 100% Nebbiolo from a lesser-known area of Piemonte, and thus much less expensive that a Barbaresco or Barolo. It compares somewhat favorably to a younger Barbaresco, offering a lot of fruit but without being overpowering. Anyone looking to experience Nebbiolo without spending a lot should search out this wine.

From the south, I had the 2007 Colosi Nero d'Avola. I've had this wine before and it once again delivered. The wine has cherry flavors that come to the fore initially, but it remains light on its feet. As before, the wine also improved on the second night, with a little more complexity and body, really taking it up another notch. I really like this wine and anticipate more purchases of it in the near future, as the price is quite appealing.

Monday, June 8, 2009

2007 Pierre Usseglio Panorama Vin de Table

Another wine I've recently tried from this great Rhone vintage was the 2007 Pierre Usseglio Panorama. This wine is different because it is mainly Merlot in the blend, and thus must be classified as a Vin de Table. It was an intriguing blend, different than anything else I've had from the Rhone recently, but still enjoyable in its own way. it still offered some characteristics of the typical Rhone profile, but then the roundness provided by the Merlot.

I'd still probably prefer a normal Cotes du Rhone, but I still enjoyed this. It is a well-made wine, and certainly fairly priced. For anyone who enjoys Merlot and wants to try something different, I'd certainly recommend it.

Sunday, June 7, 2009

A red and a white from Spain

I'm still drinking a lot from Spain, which I think has so many great values. A few weeks ago with grilled shrimp, I went for a white wine and had the 2007 Burgans Rias Baixas Albarino. This is a very good white wine that is a great match with shellfish, simple with some light floral notes. It's also a great value, and a different type of white that I prefer over a standard Chardonnay.

Last week I tried a new red wine, the 2004 Finco Sobreno Toro. This was a new producer for me, from a region where I've had a few really good wines. On the first night, this wine did not have much to offer, and I was a bit underwhelmed. On the second night though, it started to show more dark fruit. Overall, it still seemed like maybe a little bottle time would help this out. It's certainly a different style than something like the Termes that I've enjoyed, and I may get more to see if it can age for a few years and improve more.

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

2007 Domaine Les Grands Bois Cotes du Rhones-Villages Cuvee Philippine

From the fantastic 2007 vintage in the Rhone, this producer fashioned a set of wines that made quite an impression on Robert Parker. I was not familiar with them before the reviews came out, but once I saw them and some of the wines arrived here in Atlanta, I had to buy some. The 2007 Grands Bois Cotes du Rhone-Villages Cuvee Philippine is a blend of 50% Grenache, 35% Syrah, and the rest Mourvedre and Carignan. It was quite a nice wine on the first night, with the spice and earthiness of the Grenache, but also full of flavor from the Syrah.

On the second night, it was even better. No doubt, this wine could pass for a Chateauneuf du Pape, but much cheaper. This wine was only about $19, and is a real whopper. It is a real testament to this vintage, but also a great effort from a producer that has put out a lot of really good wines at great prices. I also picked up a bottle of their Rasteau, but need to get more of this as well.

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

A dinner with old friends

Over Memorial Day Weekend, my friend Matt and his wife came to visit and stay with me, and my friend Andy and his wife also came to town. I've known Andy forever, and Matt since we were kids playing little league together. The 3 of us were in high school together, so Saturday night was a nice mini-reunion. Instead of going out, I suggested we just eat in, which meant I could break out a nice selection of wines.

Before dinner, I opened a bottle of the 2007 Terredora Aglianico, which I had just picked up that afternoon. We tasted this wine at Vinitaly, and I thought it was a very good, forward Aglianico that is also fairly priced. This first bottle purchased here certainly met those expectations. It had lots of fruit and a good body, a nice wine to kick off the night.

For dinner, we had steaks along with my herb roasted potatoes, so I chose the 2000 Domaine de Cristia Renaissance Chateauneuf du Pape. I'm not sure, but my final verdict is that this wine might have suffered a bit of heat damage. It wasn't cooked, but it had a bite to it that never went away, and just never seemed to balance out, even though it had a couple of hours of air. Others liked the wine, but I'm pretty sure it had a flaw.

Following that, I wanted something that would wow everyone as we had finished eating, so I went with the 2001 Sartori Amarone. Despite not having more than a few minutes of air, this wine did not disappoint. It was full and expressive as an Amarone should be, though not to the level of the best I've had. I had no complaints though - this was a great introduction to Amarone for a group that had not experienced one before.

The Amarone actually went so quickly that I ended up opening one last bottle. Sticking with Italy, I went for the 1997 Campogiovanni Brunello. Again, we opened and started drinking, and the wine was pretty solid from the start. It certainly improved as we drank, but it was really drinking well, showing off the great pedigree of the 1997 vintage, with nice cherry fruit and a pretty long finish. I was happy with the wine, and look forward to some other great 1997 Brunellos over the next several years.

All in all, this was a great night. It really is fun to get to enjoy a night like this with old friends and to share some of my wines with them, even if they aren't "into wine" like me. Everyone enjoyed the different styles, and I find it fascinating to see how different people prefer different wines. In the end, it is always a matter of personal preference.