Thursday, December 17, 2009

The variety of Italy

I've had several Italian wines over the last few weeks, as always showcasing the tremendous variety from the country. I'll highlight five wines here from five distinctly different regions.

First was a 2004 Luigi Einaudi Dolcetto di Dogliani. I've found Einaudi's wines to be quite enjoyable and affordable representations of Piemonte, but this wine didn't impress me too much. Dolcettos are meant to be drunk young, and maybe this wine had lost some of its freshness. It wasn't past its prime, just didn't seem to have all that I expected.

Up next was one of my favorite consistent wine values, the 2007 Falesco Vitiano. A blend of Cab, Merlot, and Sangiovese from Umbria, this wine almost always delivers a nice bouquet of red fruit that makes it an ideal match for food. There have been several very good vintages, and 2007 continues that trend, while keeping the price tag at about $12.

One wine of the group that came from my cellar was the 2000 Morgante Don Antonio. Made from Nero d'Avola, this is one of the wines that really got Sicilian wines noticed in the US. This wine may have been aged a little longer than recommended, but it still wasn't bad. In fact, on the second night it still held together fairly well, though it didn't blow me away.

Moving back up the boot, I had another bottle of the 2007 Terredora Aglianico. I've really enjoyed this wine on the prior occasions, but this time was actually a little disappointed. It was the first time my tasting matched Antonio Gallioni's review that called the wine out for being a little heavy on the oak. I really hadn't noticed before, but I did this time. Perhaps the wine was in an odd phase, as the second night the oak had mellowed somewhat, though wasn't completely gone. I still have a few bottles left, so we'll see what happens.

Finally, I had a bottle of the 2007 Brig'aldara Valpolicella. One of my favorite producers from the area, and one whose wines we've enjoyed at Vinitaly, this was the first time in a while I'd found their Valpolicella on local shelves again. For about $12, this wine overdelivers again, a wonderful example of a simple Valpolicella. I've got a note coming soon on one of their Amarones as well, but I would encourage anyone who wants to taste a great example of this region's entry-level wines to search this wine out, I already have another bottle at home, and will likely be buying more.

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