Saturday night I attended a feast of epic proportions as we celebrated my good friend Scott's final days as a bachelor with dinner at Fogo de Chao (there were other activities too, but this was the only one that included wine). As the resident wine geek of the party, I went in search of a couple of fine bottles to accompany all of the piles of grilled meats we would be devouring. An early Saturday scouring some of my favorite area stores produced two fine choices: a 2004 Domaine Charvin Chateauneuf du Pape, and a 2005 Clos I Terrasses Laurel Priorat.
Of course, with a large party, I also ended up needing to purchase one additional bottle, so we began the night with the 2005 Antinori Peppoli Chianti Classico. Though I think 2004 is the better vintage in Tuscany, I was quite pleased at how this 2005 showed. It is a bit more modern in style than many Chiantis, apparently containing a bit of Syrah and Merlot in the final blend. To me, this gave the wine just a bit more body, which was perfect for the meal. I typically enjoy Antinori's wines, and this one is probably worth trying more of if the price is right.
Next we moved on to the big guns. First up came the 2004 Charvin, a predominately Grenache-based Chateauneuf, with bits of Syrah, Mourvedre, and Vaccarese. While the 04 didn't score quite as highly as the 05 from Parker, it was supposed to be a little more forward and accessible now. Having a bit of time to open up was certainly beneficial though, as the wine was still quite young. As it began to come around, the wine showed off a lot of the classical earthy Chateauneuf notes that I love so much. However, it was still somewhat restrained, but in a way of elegance that made this wine stand out. I quite enjoyed it, but would certainly hold off a while before drinking anymore.
Finally, we came to the 2005 Laurel, which is the second wine of Clos I Terrasses in Priorat, makers of Clos Erasmus. This was the first time I had seen the Laurel in the market, and I was quite pleased to get my hands on it, having read an outstanding review in The Wine Advocate. The Laurel didn't disappoint, coming out firing right from the start. The nose was rich, and the taste even richer, with gobs of dark fruit. The wine is a blend of 65% Garnacha and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, and is certainly what I would consider a modern or New World-styled wine. There is none of the finesse of the Charvin here, just flavors that come out punching. It was a perfect finishing wine, allowing me to have a bit with the last pieces of filet, but also to sip and enjoy as my "dessert." Overall, I thoroughly enjoyed this and may look to add a bottle to the cellar to see how it evolves. It certainly makes me wish I could afford a bottle of the Clos Erasmus as well, but as it would certainly command around $300 or more (thanks partly to a perfect score from TWA), I'll have to settle for the Laurel for now.
Overall, these three wines presented a great contrast of wines and styles that even some of the less experienced tasters noted. I was a bit surprised that one person commented that he enjoyed the Charvin more, as sometimes the more nuanced style can get lost on folks who get blown over by the full force of a wine like the Laurel. I liked both wines for what they were, and that's what makes this hobby/passion so much fun.
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